Weekly Muse

DISRUPTORS– in fashion

The Fashion industry has long been home to the art of expression of emotion, politics and and a convey or sexuality, gender and race- it amplifies personal perspectives often resulting in conviction of controversy… introducing you to the first of two most influential/ controversial designers!

Alexander McQueen

‘The Hooligan of Fashion’

Lee Alexander McQueen, founded ‘Alexander Mcqueen’ label 1992, his prior phenomenal experience began on Saville Row at aged 16 starting as an apprentice in the historic centre of British menswear tailoring, before working for a London-based Japanese designer KOJI TATSUNO, then moving to renowned fashion capital Milan to join ROMEO GIGLI. Following great success McQueen was only just beginning as he returned to London to complete an immensely impressive MA degree in Fashion Design at Central Saint Martin despite having no previous ‘formal qualifications’.

Following on from this, McQueen was appointed head designer at Givenchy in 1996, ended explosively in 2001 whilst also launching his own label in 1992.


MCQUEENS INFLUENCES-

McQueen was heavily influenced by theatricals and loved to create drama within collections, allowing audiences to feel and experience the power of fashion. His work was a blend of subversion and tradition.

“You’ve got to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here for, to demolish the rules but to keep tradition.”

Alexander McQueen

CONTROVERSY/ KEY EVENTS TIMELINE-

Firstly, one of the most talked about collections ‘Jack the Ripper stalks his victims’ (1992), McQueens MA degree show for Central Saint Martin’s. The collection referenced 19th century serial killer Jack the Ripper as well as the victims involved and the garments were inspired by reimagined Victorian garb but in a more seductive way with unsettling undertones, McQueens own hair was added in reference to freakish behaviour of the serial killer whom would snip chunks of victims hair. A fairly common practice in the Victorian era signifying giving apart of you the someone. Stylist Isabella Blow, bought the collection entirely before mentoring McQueen, networking him to various connections within the industry.

Secondly, ‘Taxi Driver’- inspired by 1976 film by Martin Scorsese, McQueens first collection displayed at London fashion week, post graduation, sponsored by British fashion councillor. Introducing ‘Bumster’ the infamous extremely low rise trousers. Unfortunately, none of the items from this collection exist anymore as after the closure of the exhibit McQueen packed all the garments into bin bags and stashed them behind a night before going on a rather heavy night out, only to remember the next day and seeing all the items had gone. 

Next, from his first professional runway that shortly followed after the taxi driver collection- Mcqueen gained a reputation for himself through his runways for being controversial and using shock tactics earning the title ‘the hooligan of fashion’.

Continuing the timeline the theatrics continue… ‘Highland Rape’ 1995 highlighted Englands abuse of the power of Scotland introducing the ‘bumster skirt’ inspired by the ‘builders bum’. Models appeared in torn revealing clothes with a mossy runway and eerie music raising high levels of misogyntic accusations and attention.

Short Shock Summmary

• The ‘Hunger’, another runway- this showcased bustiers filled with worms…
• ‘It’s the jungle out there’, a car caught on fire- accidentally…
• A runway part funded by American Express were not impressed with the shock tactics, demanding Mcqueen retitle the water filled tank and raining runway from ‘The Golden Shower’ to ‘untitled’…
• Labelled the most memorable runway in fashion history – Shalom Harlow spray painted dress by robots!
• Sinister merry-go-round,
• Human game of chess,
• Ghostly hologram of Kate Moss.

IN CONCLUSION

McQueens theatrics excited audiences for decades as he ruled the fashion industry combining shock tactics and dramatics with art and expressive emotions. Showgoers next left dissatisfied and the pure enjoyment but slight horror Mcqueen always delivered which is why in 2010 when he sadly took this own life, everyone promised to ensure his legacy lived on… and it sure did.